me: : Developers FILM: Rodinal <-- mostly Ilfotec HC 110 D19 lith caustic brews I make myself monobaths I make myself : PAPER dev whatever I can get or make up. especially love caustic split developing, geting the blacks to Dmax before getting the other tones up :-) stop: acetic acid - I also used citric for a while but discovered a HUGE problem with it. Firstly, why do we use stop bath? For films it's to halt development at a precise or critical time, but for paper it's largely to prolong the life of the fix. Citric acid decomposes fix. bad stop bath, very bad! ;-) : Fixer Agfa (cheaper and more concentrated than other readily available brands here) or make it myself. : Toners: thiourea, polysulphide or sulphide sepia for longevity (different ones for different chemical interactive effects if I'm split toning) other green/blue/split/whatever I mix myself. I only use selenium or metal toners for colour though as tests (mine, Kodaks and others) have shown they offer little to no protection, and in the case of selenium toner it can actually be detrimental to print longevity. I know ALL the books say otherwise, but the simple fact is that metal salts like gold only offer protection proportional to the amount of silver they replace, so yes if someone is prepared to completely bleach away the silver and replace it with that awful blue that gold produces then by all mean, they now have a gold image, but any silver that remains is still susceptible to oxidation. Only sulphiding offers true protection. Agepon for glazing - it beats the heck out of oxgall on both ease of use and lack of stench! Bleaches: Iodine, bichromate bleach is preferable though.. ferricyanate I even have ceric sulphate for bleaching! :-) k
