Re: ΣÏ?εÏ?: Polaroid D&S

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DSLR’s is reputed to be a staggering number. Insiders seem to indicate there are between 10-20 million DSLP’s. I know it’s a big spread but when you consider Apple has about 200 million iPhones and iPads out there, Nikon and Canon are in the trenches. People on this list contribute phone shots to the gallery and they are not the only ones looking for quality.


Jan


On Sep 6, 2012, at 7:41 PM, asharpe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Heh. Why does dust only matter for the 35 million film cameras out there?
I might argue that a sensor with power applied to it is even more of a
dust magnet than film that has been wound to the next frame, generating
static electricity. How many replaceable lens digital cameras are out
there?

Andrew



On Thu, September 6, 2012 3:42 pm, Jan Faul wrote:

Photoshop’s D&S leaves a lot to be desired and in my mind it is one of
the great failures of Adobe software. What is in every other way a
sophisticated piece of software, when it gets to D&S, Adobe is no farther
advanced than they were a decade ago. There also used to be n excellent
piece of software called Intellihance, but the folks who wrote it, have
abandoned it since the advent of cleaner digital files. They all act like
dust is a thing of the past, and meanwhile there are an estimated 35
million film cameras in the US.


JAn



On Sep 6, 2012, at 6:05 PM, David Dyer-Bennet wrote:


On 2012-09-06 13:25, Tina Manley wrote:

The Polaroid Dust and Scratches filter deals with dust and scratches
better than anything I have found, but it does result in some
artifacts. To get around that, I apply the D&S filter at whatever
strength is needed to get rid of most of the flaws.  Then in the
History panel, I
click the box that applies the History Brush to that level and then
click on the level above (before the filter was applied).  That way
you can use the History Brush, viewing at 100%, to brush out only the
flaws and the filter is not applied to the whole photo.  You can do
the same thing with layers, but I usually use the History Brush
because it's easier and faster.

If you're spotting dust bits individually, is this really better than
spot healing brush?

For big dirty background areas, I've been using ordinary Photoshop Dust
& Scratches filter, on a copy of the background layer, and then
creating a layer mask to limit it to the areas where detail isn't
critical (out-of-focus backrounds generally).  (I was scanning several
hundred B&W index prints from the 1960s by another photographer; to
call them "somewhat dirty" would be an understatement.)

--
David Dyer-Bennet, dd-b@xxxxxxxx; http://dd-b.net/
Snapshots: http://dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/data/
Photos: http://dd-b.net/photography/gallery/
Dragaera: http://dragaera.info



Art Faul


The Artist Formerly Known as Prints
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