Re: FW: Maco genius print film

[Herschel Mair <herschelmair@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Guy,

I'm afraid it's bee a while, but the research was done at the Image Permanence Institute at RIT.

Try this link.

Actually, I think it wasn't so much that the selenium toning wasn't effective as much as the fact that the selenium (Or Gold in Gold toning) had nothing to do with it!

 

Andy do you have a reference to the original thesis?

 

I'll send you some info off site

 

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/toning-permanence.html

Herschel

Guy Glorieux <guy.glorieux@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi Herchel,

What would be a reference to reed on selenium toning not working to protect the length of silver print?

Thanks,

Guy

----- Original Message -----

From: Herschel Mair

To: List for Photo/Imaging Educators - Professionals - Students

Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 3:50 AM

Subject: Re: FW: Maco genius print film

It sounds like this is pretty basic black and white material.

 

DEVELOPER: PQ developer is common and garden developer which you could use for film or paper.

It's not that different from the other basic developer which is MQ. The one uses Phenidone as the basic developing agent, the other uses Metol (P and M) The "Q" is from Hyroquinone. Metol is slightly more toxic than Phenidone so that's prbably why they advise PQ.

 

You could also use D76 or Dektol, HC110 or D19 or any of the basic Kodak developers. Whatever you do, you'll have to do a test to see what development time gives you what you want.

If you have an exposure guide, then shoot a white wall and see how long you must develop the film to get solid black. use that as a starting point.

 

Remember that, as a rough rule, exposure controls density and development controls contrast

STOP BATH: Kodak Indicator stop bath will work absolutely fine.

FIXER: Almost all  fixer is Thiosulphate based. Some is Sodium Thiosulphate and some Amonia Thiosulphate Ilford Hypam is the Amonia variety and I think Kodak rapid fixer is too. I believe that rapid fixer is a hardening fixer. Anyway, tray processing is always dubious for film. If you can get a deep tank and dip the film into it so that no surface touch, that's a better idea. Other wise clip the 4 corners and try to keep the film off the bottom of the tray

WASH: Fixed volume just means that the amount of water leaving the washer is the same as the amount coming in so the water volume stays the same. The other method would be a machine that fills up and then dumps the water in regular cycles.

TONING - they also recommend using LP-Selenia for silver protection half way
through the wash process; I've never heard of doing this

 

This is selenium toning to make the image last longer. It now appears that this doesn't work. So don't bother with it.

5. FINAL WASH: wetting agent - Use filtered water with photo-flo.

Herschel

 

Herschel Mair
Head of the Department of Photography,

Higher College of Technology
Muscat
Sultanate of Oman

Adobe Certified instructor

 

+ (986) 99899 673

 

www.herschelmair.com

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Herschel Mair
Head of the Department of Photography,

Higher College of Technology
Muscat
Sultanate of Oman

Adobe Certified instructor

 

+ (986) 99899 673

 

www.herschelmair.com

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