Re: FW: Maco genius print film

Guy Glorieux <guy.glorieux@xxxxxxxxxxxx> · Fri, 31 Mar 2006 04:37:20 -0500

Hi Herchel,
What would be a reference to reed on selenium 
toning not working to protect the length of silver print?
Thanks,
Guy

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: 
  Herschel 
  Mair 
  To: List for Photo/Imaging 
  Educators - Professionals - Students 
  Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 3:50 
AM
  Subject: Re: FW: Maco genius print 
  film

  It sounds like this is pretty 
  basic black and white material.

  DEVELOPER: PQ developer is common 
  and garden developer which you could use for film or paper.
  It's not that different from the 
  other basic developer which is MQ. The one uses Phenidone as the basic 
  developing agent, the other uses Metol (P and M) The "Q" is from Hyroquinone. 
  Metol is slightly more toxic than Phenidone so that's prbably why they advise 
  PQ.

  You could also use D76 or Dektol, 
  HC110 or D19 or any of the basic Kodak developers. Whatever you do, 
  you'll have to do a test to see what development time gives you what you want. 

  If you have an exposure guide, 
  then shoot a white wall and see how long you must develop the film to get 
  solid black. use that as a starting point.

  Remember that, as a rough rule, 
  exposure controls density and development controls contrast

STOP BATH: Kodak Indicator 
  stop bath will work absolutely fine.

FIXER: Almost all  fixer 
  is Thiosulphate based. Some is Sodium Thiosulphate and some Amonia 
  Thiosulphate Ilford Hypam is the Amonia variety and I think Kodak rapid 
  fixer is too. I believe that rapid fixer is a hardening fixer. Anyway, tray 
  processing is always dubious for film. If you can get a deep tank and dip the 
  film into it so that no surface touch, that's a better idea. Other wise clip 
  the 4 corners and try to keep the film off the bottom of the tray

WASH: 
  Fixed volume just means that the amount of water leaving the washer is the 
  same as the amount coming in so the water volume stays the same. The other 
  method would be a machine that fills up and then dumps the water in regular 
  cycles.

TONING - they also recommend using LP-Selenia for silver 
  protection half way
through the wash process; I've never heard of doing 
  this

  This is selenium toning to make 
  the image last longer. It now appears that this doesn't work. So don't bother 
  with it.

5. FINAL WASH: wetting agent - Use filtered water with 
  photo-flo.

Herschel

  Herschel Mair
Head 
  of the Department of Photography,
  Higher College of Technology
Muscat
Sultanate of Oman 
  Adobe Certified 
  instructor

  + (986) 99899 673

  www.herschelmair.com

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