I was looking in Tim Rudman's toning book, and he states that IPI says
Selenium is pretty effective to preserver photographies BUT complete
toning is required.
Sulfide is far more effective from what it says in there
Herschel Mair wrote:
Hi Guy,
I'm afraid it's bee a while, but the research was done at the Image
Permanence Institute at RIT.
Try this link.
Actually, I think it wasn't so much that the selenium toning wasn't
effective as much as the fact that the selenium (Or Gold in Gold
toning) had nothing to do with it!
Andy do you have a reference to the original thesis?
I'll send you some info off site
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/toning-permanence.html
Herschel
*/Guy Glorieux <guy.glorieux@xxxxxxxxxxxx>/* wrote:
Hi Herchel,
What would be a reference to reed on selenium toning not working
to protect the length of silver print?
Thanks,
Guy
----- Original Message -----
*From:* Herschel Mair <mailto:herschelmair@xxxxxxxxx>
*To:* List for Photo/Imaging Educators - Professionals -
Students <mailto:photoforum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
*Sent:* Friday, March 31, 2006 3:50 AM
*Subject:* Re: FW: Maco genius print film
It sounds like this is pretty basic black and white material.
DEVELOPER: PQ developer is common and garden developer which
you could use for film or paper.
It's not that different from the other basic developer which
is MQ. The one uses Phenidone as the basic developing agent,
the other uses Metol (P and M) The "Q" is from Hyroquinone.
Metol is slightly more toxic than Phenidone so that's prbably
why they advise PQ.
You could also use D76 or Dektol, HC110 or D19 or any of the
basic Kodak developers. Whatever you do, you'll have to do a
test to see what development time gives you what you want.
If you have an exposure guide, then shoot a white wall and see
how long you must develop the film to get solid black. use
that as a starting point.
Remember that, as a rough rule, exposure controls density and
development controls contrast
STOP BATH: Kodak Indicator stop bath will work absolutely fine.
FIXER: Almost all fixer is Thiosulphate based. Some is Sodium
Thiosulphate and some Amonia Thiosulphate Ilford Hypam is the
Amonia variety and I think Kodak rapid fixer is too. I believe
that rapid fixer is a hardening fixer. Anyway, tray processing
is always dubious for film. If you can get a deep tank and dip
the film into it so that no surface touch, that's a better
idea. Other wise clip the 4 corners and try to keep the film
off the bottom of the tray
WASH: Fixed volume just means that the amount of water leaving
the washer is the same as the amount coming in so the water
volume stays the same. The other method would be a machine
that fills up and then dumps the water in regular cycles.
TONING - they also recommend using LP-Selenia for silver
protection half way
through the wash process; I've never heard of doing this
This is selenium toning to make the image last longer. It now
appears that this doesn't work. So don't bother with it.
5. FINAL WASH: wetting agent - Use filtered water with photo-flo.
Herschel
*Herschel Mair
*Head of the Department of Photography,
Higher College of Technology
Muscat
Sultanate of Oman
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*+ (986) 99899 673*
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*Herschel Mair
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Muscat
Sultanate of Oman
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