MACO Genius i believe is repackaged EFKE
As per the reccomendations they make:
1. Any film developer should work, but of course they have to push for
their own developers
Ilford Universal is a Phenidone-Hydroquinone based developer and
depending on dilution could be used for paper or film.
I haven;t heard of hardening incorporated in developer before, but
given the large size of the film it may be required.
Can you use tubes for development?
2. Citrric stop bath is "odorless" compared to acetic, I love using it
for paper development since the darkroom smells more like lemons than
like acetic acid.
3. Kodak rapid fix is ammonium thiosulphate based. But any fixer wil do
4. Cascade washer is a method of washing, but your current method will
work as well.
5. Using selenium after fixing is a good measure to increase longevity
but it adds contrast to the negative.
LP-Selenia is their equivalent to Kodak's Rapid Selenium Toner.
6. Distilled/DI water final wash is a great way of avoiding using
Phto-Flo or similar and not having frying marks in the film.
I have used it with 35mm/120 film
I concur with Guy, jandc are another great source.
Guy Glorieux wrote:
Hi Dave,
Welcome to the list.
Hmmm! 20x24 pinhole did you say. I thought I would be the only one
in this group ever to do such a silly thing. Would love to see some
pictures off-line! Do you have a film holder to keep the film in
place? How do you move this contraption around town? -:)
As far as Maco, this is supposed to be a reliable photo supplies
producer. With the Genius film, you might want to experiment first
with a few sheets of 4x5 before going the full 20x24 size. Never,
ever ran into a film that required anything more than dilute acetic
acid as a bath to stop the action of the developer, even when the said
developer was coffee (see the RIT files)... A lot of people use plain
water, actually. As far as fixing, well fixing is fixing and I would
suggest to use your favorite fix.
If (like me) you're not a genius, then you might want to get you film
from J and C Photo at
http://www.jandcphoto.com/
They sell 20x24 sheet film.
Best regards,
Guy Glorieux
(Montreal, large format pinhole)
----- Original Message ----- From: "dave moore" <mooredg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "List for Photo/Imaging Educators - Professionals - Students"
<photoforum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 4:18 PM
Subject: FW: Maco genius print film
Hello members,
I am a new member of this on line Photoforum group. By way of
introduction, I teach photography at Le Moyne college in Syracuse NY
and I
am also a commercial photographer. I am also a fine art photographer
and I
presently use a large self made pinhole camera to make images.
I am interested in buying a film made by Maco, a German company,
called
Genius Print Film. It is sold by Freestyle here in the USA. That's a
pretty
cocky name for any product don't you think? But anyway, I plan to buy
very
large sheets of this film (20x24") to use in my pinhole camera. I
plan to
contact print positives from these negative transparencies.
I have never used this film before and do not know anyone else who's
used it either. I downloaded the tech sheet from their website. My
questions
to all of you "geniuses" out there have to do with processing this film.
While they say the film can be processed in all types of B&W
developers, the type of developer exerts a pronounced influence on the
characteristics of the film. They seem to have very specific
chemicals they
recommend using in the processing and though I've been processing
black and
white materials for many years,typically using Kodak products, the
products
they recommend here are unfamiliar to me and I wonder how necessary they
are.
1. For developer, they recommend MACO ecoprint or Ilford
PQ-Universal. They
then say to use the hardening developer LP-Geladur to avoid
scratches. I've
never heard of any of these developers, especially a hardening
developer and
wonder if anyone out there has.
2. Stop bath - they recommend a hardening stop bath: LP-Citrodur; I
don't
know if the stop bath I currently use, Kodak Indicator stop bath, is a
hardening stop bath.
3. Fixer: they recommend a fixing bath based on ammonium thisulphate
- Lp
FIX Supra or Ilford Hypam; I currently use Kodak Rapid fixer and
don't know
if this is based on ammonium thiosulphate
4. washing - they recommend cascade washing in a fixed volume of
water at
68; I'm not familiar with the term cascade washing nor do I
understand the
idea of a fixed volume of water; any info here would be helpful
- they also recommend using LP-Selenia for silver protection half way
through the wash process; I've never heard of doing this
5. wetting agent - they say a final bath in demineralized, doionized, or
distilled water should be used to avoid drying marks and to reduce
static
charges; perhaps this is necessary with film of this size but I
really don't
know.
I hope this list isn't too exhaustive. Anyone who has used this film or
anyone knowledgeable about these processing chemicals would be of
considerable help. Thanks.
Dave Moore
------ End of Forwarded Message
--
Pablo Coronel R. Ph.D.
Research Associate
Department of Food Science
North Carolina State University
Room 14B Schaub Hall, Box 7624
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Phone (919) 513-8077
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