>So when you rotate your pair of cameras, do it about the >mid-point between them. Getting the transverse movement >of the camera between two shots to be not more than just >a cm or 2 isn't going to be difficult.
>So I think it's a non-issue.
Brian
I'm sure you are right for real 360-degree panoraminc cameras. My experience
with stitched panoramas is that "fusion" works MUCH better when you rotate
the camera (single) about the right spot (deninitely forward of the camera-body
mount). Even 6-inch lateral movement can give noticeable parralax errors
for mono-shots. For stereo shots (where tiny amounts of parallax are tfundamental
to the effect) I'm just guessing that the problems - for *stitched* panoramas
would be magnified.
Perhaps you are right though: if you avoid any near-far type elements too close to the camera it probably would be a non-issue.
Bob
Guys,
The trick to getting the stereo effect for distant subjects is to increase the base distance (distance between the lens axis). It can be 18-20 inches. Look at the Mars Rover cam's base distance. It is true that the rotation point isn't a big deal. The fancy pro heads for making stitched pans allow micro-adjustment of the rotation point relative to the lens nodal point.
AZ
