Re: Slide Duplicators

[Pablo Coronel <pablo.coronel.70@xxxxxxxxx>]

Google can show you hundreds of hits. I like Peter Ganzel's idea of using a slide projector as your light source, since those used to be color balanced and quite powerfil.  I have nt had the time to test since I just received a 100 macro lens.
http://www.pbase.com/pganzel/basic_stamp_projector_camera_controller

Also an enlarger base+column is perfect for this job, check this one:
http://www.pbase.com/braeside/slide_copier_prototype

Chherios

On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 1:12 AM, Jim Thyer <jimth@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I was recently given an old Bowens Illumitran which was for duplicating slides, with built in focussing lamps and flash.

 

I have mounted my digital camera on it, experimentation found the flash could not be controlled for exposure, and results were washed out. 

 

I then started using the focussing lamps as the light source, and set the white balance to match this.  (worked out 3000K)

 

To determine exposure I photographed a range of slides using a range of exposures with manual time/aperture settings.  I selected best match for each, and then selected the best average conditions.  Remember you cannot use auto exposure, as it would make light or dark slides (which are correctly exposed originally) all a common density. 

 

My camera (Sony A700) has an inbuilt Dynamic Range Optimiser, which effectively does HDR.  Setting this to an intermediate level reduces the contrast, as directly photographed slides tend to have a higher contrast.

 

Mostly I am copying slides to use for talks for use with a digital projector, so the high resolution (12 Mb) is more than needed so I cut down on the resolution to a medium image size of 5 Mb (around 3000x2000 pixels), keeping jpg set to Extra Fine for minimal file compression.

 

I connect the camera to the computer and fire from the computer, using the 2 sec shutter dealy to reduce any vibration when the mirror moves.

 

If I want the slide for converting to a print then I use my Canoscan FS4000US dedicated slide scanner, but this can take quite a few minutes (maybe 15?) for one full resolution scan, so makes the process very slow.

 

I can change slides under the camera in around 6 seconds, so handy for a batch of slides to conver for a talk.

 

I did borrow one of the $100 scanners, they give 5 Mb files, but found, for the one I tried, the colours were nowhere near the original.  I don't like colour correcting one picture, but I certainly won't envisage it for a batch.  Have seen these units ranging from around $80 up to $200 or more.  Suspect the more expensive may be better, but would want a guaranteed money return if I do not get the colours satisfactory.  I don't believe you should buy a scanner and then have to go through a complicated colour profiling to have it work properly.  

 

Hope this is of some help,

 

Jim Thyer. 

----- Original Message -----

From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To: List for Photo/Imaging Educators - Professionals - Students

Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 12:41 AM

Subject: Slide Duplicators

I have been unhappy with the quality of my scans from my flatbed, and don't use enough film to justify the expense for another dedicated film scanner these days.  Controlling the focus seems to be the issue and unlike my old film scanner, there is no way to adjust it.

Anyone still use the old slide duplicators to get old chromes digitized???  Would have to be much faster, and if I am using my dslr the quality should be near what I am able to produce with my digital body.  With the custom white balance, a lot of the old problems with light color temp disappear.

Anyone try this?  Any duplicators that are especially good and some I should stay away from??  The super expensive ones don't make any more sense than a film scanner.

Also anyone use one of the old copy stands with something like a light box??  Again white balance isn't the issue it once was as long as it's even, but very well might need some extension tubes to allow it to focus closer.  I have 28 80 2.8-4.0L and an 80 200 2.8L and that L glass has to be better than what you would get in a cheap duplicator, but may not be optimized for that type of work.  I have enough woodworking skills I could build a stand, and could use either a small strobe or make a light box to light the chromes.  Light box would have advantages with exposure, but I might be able to make a more even light using strobes.

With Live View, I can work tethered to the computer and have a 23 inch monitor and have far better control, but I could do that with either system.  

Thoughts?  Comments?  Ideas??    Thanks in advance.

Mark