21 jun 2006 kl. 06.01 skrev rush rouge:
hi guys,
i own a EOS 350D with on gear lense.
i m looking to aquire new set of filters,one especially for
Infrared photography.
......
2.Here goes my current list which a friend has suggested,though i m
not sure if they r reqired for my DSLR.
Cokin 120 Gradual Grey G1
Cokin 121 Gradual Grey G2
Cokin 121F Gradual Grey G2-Full ND8
Cokin 121M Gradual Grey G2-Medium ND4
Cokin 121L Gradual Grey G2-Light ND2
Cokin 121S Gradual Grey G2-Soft ND8
Orange and Red for BW contrast
......
If u want u can add to the list.
I already own a polariser for marumi(i dont know its details)...
Rush,
I pass on the IR question; no experience there.
For the others, I would ask you first what kind of software you will
use for editing (if any), because several kinds of filters can be
very successfully imitated "after the fact" in e.g. Photoshop. That
goes for all the traditional coloured BW filters most of us grew up
with, as well as colour correction filters (I talk about photography
"in the field"; in a controlled studio setting, CC filters can indeed
save lots of work later). If you use RAW (recommended) or colour
jpeg, you can simulate any (visible) colour filter using any of
several methods, e.g the channel mixer, and get excellent and
controllable results.
As for the grads, the weaker ones can easily be simulated in
Photoshop, either by the Shadows/Highlights filter, or with a
gradient on an adjustment layer, again far more flexibly than using
an actual filter at the shoot (you can get any kind of contour, e.g.
following a jagged horizon, or toning down both the sky and its
reflection in a pool.
If you have static subjects and can use a tripod, you can do better
than even the strongest grad by making two exposures of the same
scene (one for highlights, one for shadows), and combine them
afterwards, again with better results than physical filters would
give you (look at the luminous-landscape.com site for a good tutorial).
Honestly, for the money all these filter plus an adapter would cost
you, you could easily buy Photoshop Elements, and get immensely more
value for your cash....
As for pola filters, finally, that´s about the only one that can NOT
be fully simulated afterwards (except, possibly, for just darkening
the sky), so if you need to tone down reflections, do use one.
Good luck! You´ve got a good camera; use it! And don´t miss half
the fun: editing the images afterwards (and I´m not talking about
manipulations, just "darkroom work" in the Ansel Adams class; with
digital, it is far easier than it ever was with film and chemicals.
Per
Per Öfverbeck
http://ofverbeck.se
"In a world without walls or fences, who needs Windows or Gates?"
