Oh, golly! You asked for a mouthfull.
To find 18% gray is to first get the right negative. They sell those test negs, and you can print from there. I use an Ilford probe. (Ilford EM 10) At about $25 I can make a perfect print in three tries. Then, once I know the time, I can walk into any darkroom, I used to print in the basement at the Focus Gallery in San Francisco for $45 a half day.
I bought four boxes of 16X20 Grade 3 -- at Calumet in San Francisco -- One Brilliant, for the heavy paper, one Oriental, the post blue box that I used for the first time; and one Cachet to see if it was at all similar to the Oriental. I set the light, each time with the probe.
I tore one of each in quarters (8X10) and found the complete development with Ilford Bromfin (I think that's it) at 24 seconds for the Oriental, my first choice because of the great whites; at twice that 48 seconds for the Brilliant; and half that plus a little 14 seconds with the Cachet, which was a little dissapointing next to the Oriental because of the kind of creamy whites next to the Oriental.
Since I didn't want to print 48 seconds, I opened the f-stop for the Brilliant at one extra click and halved the time. Perfect prints box to box to box to . . . forever. Now I have the times for that paper at 1/2 foot candle, which is what the probe shows any time in just about any darkroom.
Of course enlarger lights may vary, but nomatter, because a half foot candle by any light is still a half foot candle; and if the prints fade as I make my series, I put in a pince of BB and just keep on printing.
Once you do your tests to find the times with the probe, it's a matter of contrast to your individual taste, each print that may require more or less light (time). Instructions come with the probe.
I have had great success with High School students, who make prints like
Ansel Adams in just three tries. {It makes you appreciate his eye, rather
than the technique.} So, if it works for young first timers, you should be
able to go to town with it.On printing with two developers, you calculate your developing time (development factor) and develop in a soft developer like Selectol, until you see the mid tones JUST BEGIN to show, then drain the print well, and emerse it carefully, evenly, quickly into the Dektol or [normal] hard developer for the remainder of the time you usually would use to develop the print. Don't worry about contaminating the second developer.
I would do this with my normal developer and then go into the Edwal Ultra Black, or whatever combination you like. As you work, if the blacks don't seem to resolve to your satisfaction, have a tray of 73- 80 degree F water to allow the developer(s) to 'complete' their work without agitation.
Then ANOTHER tray with wash water, to wash the print with agitation before you stop and fix the print. If you skip the wash with agitation you MAY get stains. Murphy's law. It takes time, but the results can be fantastic. Morely Baer used Selectol, Dektol and his black's had a great charcoal color, with very deep blacks in only the right places. His wet rocks on the Pacific Coast views were looking like they'd fall off the paper.
For gallery prints, always tone with Selleneum at 7 to one, some say 9 to one; and pull the print after no longer than 3 minutes. You may not see any difference, until you compare an un toned print. Not only that, but the B&W print will show the best under almost all types of gallery lights, too.
Keep us posted.
S. Shapiro
----- Original Message ----- From: <kpp@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: "List for Photo/Imaging Educators - Professionals - Students"
<photoforum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 10:01 AM
Subject: 2 B&W printing questions
well here are 2 new ones...
1. how can i print a 18% grey card? is there a simple step by step method?
2. what is that method that combines 2 dev times (one for the highlights and the other one for the shadows)? does it require filters other than the contrast ones? can it be used to print a muddy (too many greys0negative?
seems i am a late come'r in the trade, ain't I? thanks beforehand, kostas
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