> I'm not qualified to comment critically on this week's exhibits, > however I copied Bog Talbot's Hahahah. Oh well, that's a new one for my list of almost-names ;o0 > appropriate for my late 19th century stereopticon viewer (I can't see > the 3D effect without help.). The result was a great 3D image with > few obtrusive artifacts (The printing on the right hand bottle is > fuzzy, but I printed a low resolution image). Congratulations! I showed them a bit smaller than I like after comments about people having difficulty fusing bigger images: personally I just sit further from the screen ;o) It was not just a stereo shot: it was a very rare (for me) attempt at an indoor still life with three bits of stoneware. > Now for my question. I know how to find the nodal point for my Nikon > 4500, the required separations between images, and I can take two > images as Bob Talbot has done. But, many 3D photos are done with > red/green, red/blue or vertical/horizontal polarizations superimposed > on the same image. How do I accomplish that? Do I need to use > filters when taking the images, or can I do it in Photoshop > afterwards? Given enough time, I suppose I can figure it out, but > perhaps someone on the list can help me save some of that time I do it in PhotoShop. No filters needed at the taking stage: in fact they spoil the shot. Keep the film planes parallel (don't "toe in" or you get perspective errors) Import the two images (as layers) and align them. Vertically and rotationally you want them almost perfect. Horizontally - they will only align at one distance. The "rule" is that no part should appear to project out of the screen. I don't like rules : some images work coming out - eg http://www.st-abbs.fsnet.co.uk/3d/mounts/enterprise.htm My own feeble example showing the same pair aligned at three "distances" (front foot, eyes, hind foot) http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/photoforum/prisoner/ But if you want some free programs to help, try: http://www.stereoscopy.com/downloads/index.html The Stereoscope Applet Version 2.2 is a good demo enabling you to switch between cross-eye, parallel eye, red-green, red-blue, red-cyan, full colour etc etc at the click of a mouse. Follow the gallery links from http://www.stereofoto.de/sapplet/ for examples). Bob
