Re: Over-exposed BW negatives (dumb question)

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Pablo,

Don't worry...I once shot TMAX 3200 at 100ASA and got some (limited) images out of it....

You could try a mild bleaching agent on the film....since it's 35mm you've got plenty of exposures to work with...would've been worse if you had shot large format and only made a couple of exposures ;)

Or try a printing process that likes high-density negs....cyanotype or platinum, maybe? Platinum 35mm contacts...sounds like a winner to me!

Or, if you insist on silver, try the lowest contrast paper with a normal developer. With the images' tonal scales on the neg being "crushed" together by being on the upper end of the characteristic curve, I'd actually try increasing the contrast of the paper or developer (but not both at once...one step at a time), rather than go the more intuitive route of a milder approach.

cheers,

Alan Bucknam


On Monday, December 29, 2003, at 04:18 PM, Pablo Coronel wrote:

Hi all,
this is dumb thing but it happened.....
This Xmas, after my wife and I had lunch (and a few glasses of wine) I ran out of color film, so I stuck a roll of Ilford HP5 in my camera and starting shooting away.
Due to the wine effects some of my shots came over exposed... 2 to 3 EVs (guesstimate) and they look almost as white squares in the contact print.

My question is how to print them. high or low contrast paper?
Energetic or mild developer?
Any ideas?

Also I used the TTL setting in my Metz 300 series flash with a SCA 346/2 adapter (Nikon AF). I bought the adapter used so I don;t have a manual for it and I assume that all it does is convey the info between camera and flash.
Does anyone have a manual SCA 346/2 that could copy for me?

Thanks and happy holidays!!!


Pablo Coronel
Ph.D. Candidate
Food Science Department
North Carolina State University
Room 39 Schaub Hall, Box 7624
Raleigh, NC, 27695

Phone (919) 515-4410
Fax (919) 515-7124
e-Fax (419) 818-7590
e-mail pcorone@unity.ncsu.edu
http://www4.ncsu.edu/~pcorone



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