Le 26.5.2003 22:35, «?Russell Baker?» <rebphoto@pronetisp.net> a écrit?: > Now you have me lost..................... > > Are you saying that PS Elements > is more photo orientated than PS 5.5? I don¹t' understand Dave's statement either. > > I assumed the PS Elements was > a new but stripped down version > of Photoshop? Yes, that's right and while Adobe Photo Deluxe was really a pain compared to PS version, Photoshop Element seems to offer much of what the older PS versions do. Why do you want to choose between one or the other ? The *.PSD files can be read by both.. So your workflow could use both. If you find something convenient in PS element that you don't have in PS 5.5, use it.. Return to PS 5.5 when you need it.. In the end, your workflow will establish itself. Just be careful with color calibration : always print from the same program and don't make color/tones corrections in both.. I think that I'd use PS 5.5 and import the picture in PS Element when you need a tool which isn't present in PS 5.5 . > Just to make things real confusing > I have Paint Shop 6 and it seems > to be a hell of a lot easier and also > I like the file browser it has. Did you compare the print results ? I'd go with the program offering the better prints, the better colors. And if both are good, I'd go for the one in which I feel the most comfortable. So first criteria : the print quality, second criteria the ease of use. Just for your information : PS 7 has the file browser too. It does also have new retouching tools very convenient for portrait. > I have noticed that even after doing > the Gamma Wizard and such, that > images on my monitor when using > PS 5.5 seem to be a bit to the red side > more than they are when viewed using > Paint Shop or Arc Soft Photo Impression. That's not uncommon. It may be due to the use of Adobe RGB, which has a very wide gamut; it usually bring even more changes in the green/blue tones (but for portraits the reds and flesh tones are more important); try using the SRGB format to compare : the red cast may go away. It may also be the result of eye calibration which is less precise compared to hardware calibration. I'd make the choices based on concrete results, ignore what people say is the best for pro work (aka Photoshop) and choose the program with which I get the better results : you can't compare using a desktop printer with people using pro-press printers. So I'd make test prints with all the programs and choose the program where I get the better colors and quality prints. And although people always critique the infamous SRGB profile, if you have too much difficulty with Adobe RGB, I'd stick with SRGB, because in the computer world everything is standardized for it and it may work better. You could also try to use Bruce RGB instead of Adobe RGB : it has an intermediary gamut which cause less dramatic changes compared to Adobe's. The problem with large gamuts is that they are for printers and are somewhat too large to be mimicked well on a display screen, so differences between what is onscreen and what comes out from the printer often occur. Good luck -- Christiane
