Well the fact that the failed ssd is working again tells me it wasn't zapped by static or power transients. The comment about taking a long time for the ssd to reorganize itself is interesting, but here it failed 1 day, and I went to fix it the next day, where it still was not detected by F35 live usb stick. Came back to life after I installed the sata drive.
The only thing I can think of is a motherboard component that fails when warm, came back to life after it cooled while I installed the sata? But since the same failure was seen with SSD plugged into m.2 socket on motherboard, and different SSD plugged into m.2 socket on pcie->m.2 adapter; I don't think there is any common component? Don't know enough about these motherboard architecture to say for sure. Must be something in common though to explain these symptoms.
On Wed, Feb 23, 2022 at 8:20 PM Tim via users <users@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Wed, 2022-02-23 at 10:41 -0400, George N. White III wrote:
> I used to add surge protection to power bars. We had a tree fall on
> the cable coax that they had installed without a proper anchor, just
> a zip tie to the mast for the AC power. The mast was pulled off the
> house, which meant the neutral line got disconnected first, and
> lightbulbs went off like flash bulbs. My Victor 9000 PC with the
> home-made surge protection survived, but we lost the doorbell
> transformer and a radio (and the thyristers in the surge protector).
I've always been a bit wary of ones in power boards (the multi-socket
adaptors on short leads. Ideally surge protection should be at the
distribution box (to protect the whole house from surges from the
street). You really want the house to disconnect from power under
dangerous conditions, not just a board with potentially (now) hazardous
wiring still energised between it and the wall.
If you pull apart power boards, you often notice how thin the wiring
is, and the metal strips used to form the sockets. You've got a good
chance at weakening or blowing the board instead of the main fuse. Even
under good wiring circumstances the fuses and breakers may not be quick
enough to break the circuit.
Some of the boards use inappropriate over-voltage clamping that's
always being driven warm by triggering too close to the normal mains
voltage (possibly this is manufacturers of 110 volt equipment selling
their products into 240 volt markets). I've come across some that are
always too warm for my liking, and wouldn't like them being buried and
out of sight. I've seen them discoloured and deformed plastic.
People have a habit of daisy chaining power boards. EMI filters and
surge protection at the end of the line puts heavier workload on ones
nearer to the socket, and all the joins between. Advice was that if
you have to have more outlets than available on one board, the first
one plugged into the wall should be the one with filters and
protection, then plug other plain unprotected boards directly into it,
rather than string a series of boards through each other. The first
board protects the rest, rather than the rest stressing out everything.
--
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