Oh, forgot to mention in my last email:A good torch can be a boon. I lashed out and bought one of the (newer) LED torches. It was most useful in illuminating a few dark corners, and generating a glancing light on inscriptions.
If you take along a few cheaper torches, powered by two AA cells http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AA_battery they can be readily accepted gifts for locals providing assistance. --&i (:
