Re: Slide Dublicators WTT

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I've used a couple of cheap-o brands, and had a SPIRATONE one that was very satisfactory in terms of quality, not as good as the Nikon+bellows but not bad.
There is a slode copier attachemnt for the pentax cameras, I'd look for one of those, or if you have a macro lens do the tripod/acrylic trick.


I agree with the panchromatic film for copying slides, you can also use EFKE 25 for this purpose (even though the base is not clear)


At 07:07 AM 3/18/05, you wrote:
: So here are 2 Questions:
:
: 1. what kind of brands of camera mounted adapters should i choose?

I've seen the cheap all-in-one slide copiers but never used one.

the ones I've used were simply a translucent sheet of plastic or glass on a
adjustable rail which holds the film flat to the plastic.  A macro lens is
then used to focus on the film, a light source (either flash or blue
filtered tungsten light) is used to illuminate the slide - take a light
meter reading compensating for the density of the film then make your
exposure.

If you have access to a macro lens Kostas, you could always try to make a
setup to do the job using a tripod, a sheet of translucent acrylic and a
light.


regarding black and white, might I suggest another approach? "Eastman Fine Grain Positive Release Film" can be bought in 100 foot rolls very cheaply - it's an orthochromatic film that can be handled under red safelight and can be processed in normal paper developer by inspection. I've had a lot of success making slides from B&W negs in the following way - Take a contact frame or sheet of glass, lay a cut of section of EFGPRF down (emulsion side up) then lay your neg ontop of it, emulsion side down. Set your enlarger to some point (mark it off, you can repeat this later) and open your lens up, make a 'test strip' exposure of say 2, 4, 8, 16 seconds and develop it, watching (and timing!) the development as you go.

stop and fix as normal then gauge which is the best exposure time such that
you include the highlight details  and maybe modify your development for
the dark areas on the slide (your dmax)

you'll find you get pin sharp slides with a lot less fuss than by copying
the images :-)


hope this helps

k

Pablo Coronel Ph.D. Candidate Food Science Department North Carolina State University Room 39 Schaub Hall, Box 7624 Raleigh, NC, 27695

Phone (919) 515-4410
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