--- *-CHILLED DELIRIUM-* <sfunp@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us> wrote:
>
> Sure, you can "fool" the flash in Auto mode. Let's
> say you're using ISO 100, and you are shooting an
> 18% gray subject (wahahaahaha), and you have calibrated
> the real output of that particular 283.
>
> You wish to let's say, have the flash exposure at -1.3
> stops.
> The 'blue' setting on the sensor yields f/8 at a maximum of
> 15 feet (bring the Quantum). You merely set the aperture at
> f/12.5. Done.
>
> In real life, the auto sensor is constantly fooled by
> objects
> of varying reflectance, and most importantly, backgrounds of
> varying brightness, thus changing your fill ratios without
> your knowledge --- and laying the groundwork for some nasty
> surprises... If you want brain-dead, generic fill-flash (and
> you
> would be amazed at how many of today's busiest working pros
> know
> absolutely nothing about how to do this manually), get a
> Canon EX-series camera & flash, or Nikon D and later series
> body and lens (and read the entire manual !) and foggedabout
> it...
>
> --- Luis
Hi Luis:
I understand the basic principle of using the 283 as fill
flash and I agree completely that the ratio is unpredictable
using Auto. But how would you do this manually? The only method
I can think of is to have the flash in manual and measure the
actual output with a flash meter, then use diffusers to cut the
output for the amount of fill you want (no power settings on the
283). Is this what you mean by "calibrate the real output"? You
still have some calculations to do (flash to subject distance).
Maybe I'm missing something here. My tired old brain doesn't
function the way it once did and it's the end of the week.
Richard
=====
Richard Martin specializes in Cityscape and Waterscape stock photography as well as Children's Portraiture. E-mail: marphoto@yahoo.com
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