SFGate: Privacy, luxury - Flying M Ranch a playland for rich aviation buffs

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Saturday, September 15, 2007 (SF Chronicle)
Privacy, luxury - Flying M Ranch a playland for rich aviation buffs
Kevin Fagan, Chronicle Staff Writer


   (09-15) 04:00 PDT Mason Valley, Nev. --
   Until dozens of airplanes and helicopters began roaring over this pristi=
ne
little ranchland valley this month, most locals had no idea there was a
huge aviation playland for the rich just a few miles from their barn
doors.
   All those aircraft have been buzzing in and out of the Flying M Ranch,
searching for world-renowned adventurer Steve Fossett, who disappeared in
an acrobatic airplane on Labor Day. He, too, had taken off from the ranch,
home of billionaire hotel magnate Barron Hilton.
   The reaction from plenty of folks who live here was: Say what?
   Eighty hot, dusty miles south of Reno, the ranch is probably one of the
best-kept secrets around here for everyone except celebrities and those in
the upper slipstream of aviation society.
   "Well, they fly the rich and famous in there, and that's about as much as
we know about it," said Rob Cockrell, who lives in the nearby community of
Mason Valley. "But I guarantee you this: Mr. Hilton isn't going to come
down here and shake my hand."
   And then there are those who live within a few miles of the ranch - and
don't know it.
   "Never heard of it," said John Smith, tending the counter at the
stop-'n'-go market near Smith Valley. "Rich guys partying here? Hmmph."
   He waved a hand to take in the sweeping landscape of sun-baked hills,
sagebrush and nobody-knows-how-many scorpions and diamondback rattlers.
"Only thing anyone does around here is drink and work. And maybe hunt and
fish."
   That would be news, apparently, to the well-winged set at the Flying M.
   Set at the end of a 17.4-mile-long, chassis-jarring dirt road, the
million-acre spread of ranchland surrounding a mansion with its own
airfield has drawn the famous and rich in steady trickles since Hilton -
grandfather to vacuous It-Girl Paris Hilton - bought it 40 years ago. Most
of the land is leased from the federal Bureau of Land Management, and all
told it encompasses a Rhode Island-size swath of mountain and desert from
the ghost town of Bodie in California on the west to Nevada's Walker Lake
on the east.
   The ranch was named after Hilton's late wife, Marylin. It originally was
intended to be a pampering rest stop for high rollers from Las Vegas and
to house Hilton's collection of antique and exotic airplanes. But over the
decades, it has evolved into a hangout for those who share the 79-year-old
billionaire's love of aviation.
   It's an anomaly for this area, which is mainly known for its rich Western
history and simple ranching culture. John C. Fremont led an expedition
through here in the 1800s, and the gold and silver boom left mining shafts
that still dot the landscape like moon craters. An airstrip paradise in an
area so desolate that people can get lost in 20 minutes is the kind of
thing only a wealthy man could create.
   The draw is simple: Fly in privately with no notice because it is so
remote, tool around the skies as much as you please, and indulge in the
graciousness of the man whose very name embodies hospitality. At least one
gourmet chef is on staff, and her skills are so legendary among guests
that rescue workers said Fossett's disappearance was quickly noted since
he would never have missed the lunch on tap for that day.
   If you're deft with a flying stick or yoke (an aircraft steering wheel),
you might just get to take a spin in Hilton's Cessna Citation V Ultra,
1941 Stearman biplane, two gliders, 1943 Beech Staggerwing, McDonnell
Douglas 500E helicopter or three hot-air balloons - all of which,
according to one of his Web sites, Hilton still flies.
   He also owns a Bellanca Citabria Super Decathlon, one of the world's best
acrobatic airplanes. That is what the wealthy Fossett, who lives in
Chicago and Carmel, borrowed on Labor Day and disappeared in.
   "There's a whole bunch of us who have a love for flying, and we just get
together," Hilton told Denver-based aviation writer Di Freeze in 2003,
explaining his passion for running the airplane playland.
   "No one is more generous than Barron," Clay Lacy, owner of Clay Lacy
Aviation, gushed in the same article.
   Among those who have basked in Hilton's glow over the years are actors
Cliff Robertson and Sylvester Stallone, who hunts in the hills with his
children. Also visiting were the late astronaut Alan Shepard and the late
singer John Denver, who learned gliding at the Flying M and died a decade
ago flying off the coast of Monterey.
   Specialists in gliding are particularly excited about the estate - if th=
ey
get an invitation to Hilton's Barron Hilton Cup, a gliding competition
held at the ranch every two years among the top gliders of the world.
Italian world champion glider Giorgio Galetto told Freeze in the 2003
article that the experience was "a modern fairy tale."
   Locals in the know rhapsodize - from afar, not from experience - about
trout fishing in the East Walker River, which cuts through the ranch, and
skeet shooting alongside the soaring mountain slopes. The word in the area
is that some guests have been supplied $3,000 golden retrievers to help
track down the area's elusive quail.
   The central compound is a rancher's dream, consisting of a mansion-size
main house, a scattering of spacious guest houses and poplar, cottonwood
and elm trees casting shade over all. At the north end are an alfalfa
field and stack of hay bales, at the south end a cattle pen and pond with
egrets flapping among the tule reeds.
   Across the dirt road are two large hangars and an airfield, which all we=
ek
long has been buzzing with civilian and National Guard aircraft, which are
conducting a Hilton-subsidized search for Fossett in conjunction with the
official hunt headquartered 40 miles north in Minden. On Thursday there
were six helicopters, four small planes, two private jets and a military
fuel truck near the lone runway just after lunchtime.
   "It's a heck of a nice place. There's excellent hunting out there, and
I've always heard he's a very nice guy," said cattle rancher Louis
Scantena, who lives near the foot of the dirt road leading to the Flying
M. "If I ever needed a hand working my cows, all I had to do was call up
his ranch boss, and he helped out. That's a good neighbor."
   Further elucidation of the goings-on at the Flying M was tough to get th=
is
week. Calls to Hilton's representative were not returned, and queries in
person were met icily.
   "I need you to move off this road sir, and I'm giving you a verbal
warning: This is a private compound," a Lyon County sheriff's deputy told
a Chronicle reporter and photographer as they drove up to the ranch
Thursday.
   Could Barron Hilton perhaps comment about how the search effort is going
at the ranch? he was asked.
   "Let me just say you will be trespassing if you drive onto the compound,
sir," he replied flatly. Asked for his name, he said, "Deputy McDaniel."
Asked for his first name, he said, "That would be deputy to you, sir."
   Lyon County Undersheriff Joe Sanford said the ranch's mode of rejection
was merely an effort to keep distractions to a minimum.
   "They want to stay very focused on what they are doing there," said
Sanford, who attended a planning session at the compound Wednesday. "Mr.
Hilton is a great man, and he's very concerned and directed on finding his
friend.
   "The idea is not to be unfriendly. Just efficient."
   Locals say that efficiency seems to extend all year long.
   "Let's just say that unless you're rich and famous, nobody even thinks of
going to that place," said area resident Roberto Estrella. "It's in the
middle of nowhere for a reason."

   E-mail Kevin Fagan at kfagan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx --------------------------=
--------------------------------------------
Copyright 2007 SF Chronicle

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