NYTimes.com Article: At J.F.K., in Search of 'The Terminal'

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At J.F.K., in Search of 'The Terminal'

June 13, 2004
 By ANDY NEWMAN





I AWOKE at 8:26 a.m. in a vast, red-carpeted room,
surrounded by unattractive paintings. Above my head, a pair
of English sparrows chittered as they flew by, following
the graceful curve of the ceiling.

Aside from being sore, filthy, exhausted and bone-cold
beneath my corduroy blazer, I felt great. It was a
beautiful spring morning, and I had made it through my
first night in the International Arrivals Terminal at
Kennedy International Airport.

In the new Steven Spielberg movie "The Terminal," opening
on Friday, Tom Hanks plays a man from an Eastern European
country that is plunged into civil war while he is en route
to New York, leaving him, effectively, a citizen of
nowhere. As a result, he is stuck for a year in the
"International Transit Lounge" at Kennedy, where he learns
heart-warming lessons in the limitless goodwill of the
average American.

As happens so often, Mr. Spielberg stole and cheapened my
idea. For years, I have been fascinated by the cordoned-off
world of the modern airport and wondered what I would find
there if I was not distracted by having to catch a flight.
My jealous rage stirred me to belated action. As soon as I
heard about the movie, I packed a notebook and a toothbrush
and set out to spend some quantity time at the
International Arrivals Terminal, a building that looks like
a cross between a very beautiful airplane hangar and a
giant wing.

Unlike Mr. Hanks's character, Viktor Navorski, I did not
end up making out with Catherine Zeta-Jones or assembling a
loyal, lovably multiethnic posse of airport-employee pals.
But I gleaned something almost as precious: a glimpse into
the rhythms of a place that millions pass through each year
but no one ever visits.

There is a reason that most people try to spend as little
time as possible in airports. At their most innocuous,
airports are profoundly neutral environments. Every element
of their design - the dull fluorescent glow, the long
indistinguishable corridors, the recirculated air - is
intended to diffuse and defuse emotion. But airports are
also places of coercion, of order enforced not just by
security personnel but by the wonderfully named
Tensabarriers, those modular post-and-strap building blocks
of the two archetypal airport configurations, the queue and
the blockade. And by design, airports afford almost no
privacy. Nearly every task of daily life - eating, dozing,
hugging, talking, arguing - must be performed in public.

Notwithstanding the presence of first-class lounges,
airports are pretty egalitarian places, much more so than
the outside world. We passengers are all reduced to the
same class of obedient toddlers. Don't go there. Don't tell
jokes. Take off your shoes. Take off your belt. Walk
through the scanner. Hold out your arms. Ever mindful of
the threat of terrorism, we understand, in a vague way,
that this is all For Our Own Good. Hence the oddly bland,
bovine expressions on travelers' faces.

But as the movie suggests, every place, no matter how
seemingly anoxic or antiseptic, no matter how relentlessly
surveilled, has a life of its own. I began to recognize
this that first night, minutes after the flight I held a
ticket on left without me.

Nervous at the prospect of being detected and ejected, I
repaired to my local watering hole. Shannon's was little
more than a counter of artificially aged wood. But the West
Indian barman, Trini, had made it his own. On the shelf
behind him, beside a leggy philodendron, he kept a bookmark
depicting the Last Supper in muted reds and blues. "I just
love the way it depicts Jesus and his disciples, showing
love, and fellowship, and togetherness," he said.

As the terminal emptied of passengers, the crew of a
LanChile flight swept in and began photographing one
another in their new red and black uniforms. The old ones
were standard flight crew blue, like the one Ms. Zeta-Jones
is wearing when she first meets Mr. Hanks. "These are
better," a stewardess said, "more flattering."

To someone passing through, the airport seems like a pretty
uneventful place. But if you stick around long enough, you
will witness the tense calm periodically shattered. That
first night, a few minutes after the last flight of the
evening departed, a frustrated, exhausted woman in search
of lost luggage tried to storm the gates. A guard leaped up
and intercepted her. A brief shouting match ensued and
quickly turned obscene.

After vanquishing the intruder, the guard, a squat figure
with a shaved head and bristly folds in the back of his
neck, began walking a fast figure-eight through the two
metal detectors, setting off beeps in a soothingly annoying
pattern. He continued for six full minutes. It looked like
the behavior of a caged animal pacing off stress, though it
may have been routine maintenance.

It was already four hours past the departure of my flight,
so, afraid of being thrown out - and confident that
invoking Steven Spielberg's name would not cut any ice with
the guards - I decided not to ask. But the incident had put
the guard and his partner on heightened alert, and they
soon noticed me staring at them. They cast me out of the
secure area and directed me to the hotel reservations desk
downstairs.

I hung a left instead, and entered a zone of shuttered
shops, unpeopled escalators and dimly bright corridors,
anchored by an oasis called Café Ritazza. Open round the
clock to serve the airport's night staff and passengers
awaiting early-morning flights, it was at that moment
inhabited by a young, hip Japanese couple dressed in
modified cowboy gear and a bleached blonde with several
empty Buds lined up in front of her.

Upstairs, I found a red-carpet area where a small nation of
bag people, some with fairly expensive bags, stretched out
in chairs or on the floor. In the film version of J.F.K.,
Viktor manages to build himself a rather sophisticated bed.
In my case, I took my place on the carpet and drifted off
to sleep, lulled by a soft female voice periodically
reminding me to keep my luggage beside me at all times.

At 3:13 a.m., we were rousted by an apologetic officer. We
all trooped down to the Ritazza, where the cashier, Jenny,
was on break reading a romance novel, and where I napped
across a row of chairs. When the red-carpet area reopened,
I returned there and slept until the sparrows began their
morning rounds.

At breakfast - eggs and toast in a plastic-foam container -
I was joined by the Japanese couple. Susumu, a photographer
back home in Tokyo, said that his girlfriend, Natsumi, in a
black-mesh cowboy hat, had a toothache: her right rear
lower gum was inflated like a tiny red Parker-House roll.
Eager to be of service, I went to the nearest newsstand and
bought a $2 bottle of Anbesol, for which I was charged
$9.79. (Airport living, though Spartan, is not cheap. Over
three days and two nights I spent $157 without consuming
anything more decadent than a tuna sandwich.)

It was Sunday, so I went upstairs to see what was doing on
Chapel Row. For a place owned and operated by the secular
government, the airport can also be surprisingly spiritual:
J.F.K. had four small worship rooms from which to choose.
The Catholic chapel, Our Lady of the Skies, had a wooden
statue of the Virgin Mother balanced on the nose of an
airplane propeller. The International Synagogue was lined
with books. The crucifix on the back wall of the Christ for
the World Chapel was an airplane standing on end. And the
place labeled "multifaith chapel" looked like a mosque,
with signs in Arabic and a poster of Mecca facing east.

I stopped into the afternoon service at the Christ for the
World chapel, the Rev. Patricia Evans presiding. The dozen
worshippers introduced themselves and testified briefly.
There was Jessie, from North Carolina, a tall girl with a
big strong voice. Ms. Evans asked if she'd give us a song.
There was Marisol, who worked at the airport and had been
passed over several times for promotion, until the Lord
finally saw fit to give it to her. Praise the Lord,
everyone said.

At the end of the hall I met Rabbi Bennett M. Rackman. A
tall, good-looking man in his 50's, he touted the diversity
of the terminal's religious district. "Out here is a sacred
space, a safe space," he said, "where people have to
respect each other." Lately, however, there has been
controversy over the multifaith chapel. "The Muslims took
it over," he said. "They put in the carpet. They put up
signs." Then, brightening, he unlocked a blank white door
and revealed a reliquary of wonders: a Bible in Hebrew and
Latin from 1740, a chalice from which a Pope once drank, a
Torah rescued, supposedly, on Kristallnacht and found
buried in a cemetery in Germany.

It was an incongruous sight, evidence that even amid the
anonymous bustle of airports, people reach out for a
greater connection. I was touched, but I was also tired.

At 3:26 p.m., I was enjoying a red-carpet snooze when I was
awakened by a harsh voice and a nudge.

"Hey," a Port Authority police officer was saying. "Hey. Is
this your bag?" He pointed to a large white canvas sack. It
wasn't.

The officer radioed for help and cleared the area. Soon a
German shepherd came, sniffed the bag, and sat down a few
feet away, wagging his tail. Calm descended again upon the
terminal, but only until a towheaded 3-year-old named Max
wandered off and got stuck in an electronic revolving door.
His mother shouted his name and minced over in her high
heels. Male onlookers in more sensible shoes rushed over
and pried the door open. Max walked out looking bewildered.


A few minutes later, he wandered away again from his easily
distracted mother. He approached me and looked up. "Daddy?"
he asked. "No, I'm sorry," I replied.

Paradoxically, airports can sometimes be the easiest places
to make a connection. Where else but in an airport bar
would I have struck up an immediate friendship with Dave
the tire patch guy? Dave, a sturdy Midwesterner in a salmon
polo shirt with a company logo on it, was on his way to
Munich. At Bar Avion, Dave told me that Goodyear makes a
different tire for each of the hundreds of Nascar tracks.

Guess what else? Someday soon you will be filling your car
tires with compressed nitrogen. "In five or six years,"
Dave said, "every gas station is going to have a nitrogen
generator."

That night on the red carpet, when the guard woke the
sleepers at 3:11 a.m., I headed straight downstairs to Café
Ritazza. Jenny was behind the counter again, her nose
buried in a history book. "That's not the same book as
yesterday, is it?" I said, startling her. "Oh no," she
replied. "I just started this one." Soon the morning
travelers began to trickle in. I went back upstairs to
sleep off my cranberry muffin.

When I was awakened again at 8:49 a.m., it was neither by
sparrows nor recorded announcements nor cops. I pulled my
hat up from over my eyes to see two nice-looking men with
clipboards standing over me.

"Are you O.K.?" one of them asked. Yes, I said.

"Your
phone is out, your money's falling out of your pockets. I
don't know if you have a flight later on today, but if you
need help we're here.

"We're called Volunteers of America."

Mortified, I
stuffed my phone and my change back in my pants and
gathered up my belongings. I had stayed too long.

As I headed for the big sliding doors, no Spielbergian line
of well-wishers formed to see me off. But I could
practically hear a John Williams symphony surging behind me
as I headed out into the dazzling sunlight, blinking in new
wonder at the outside world, still feeling the tug of the
home I was leaving behind.

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/06/13/movies/13NEWM.html?ex=1088224259&ei=1&en=cf74bc4ceed31a5a


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